I just acquired 2 iTach Global Cache TCP/IP to IR with PoE devices to be bale to control my old devices from HR, 3 Harman Kardon devices (AVR 4500, DVD5 and DVD30) and an old Sony BraviaTV. The configuration seemed quite straight forward but none of the devices seem to get the IR codes? First I thought the problem were the codes, but now I am thinking that the problem is either with the iTach device or with HR? When I click on a button, like volume up or down, I can see the red light blincking at the end of the IR emisor though? I have already read several posts, but unfortunately I did not find any solution. Could some one give me a hint please? Many thanks.
I would think if the red light is flashing then you are sending a command. The question is are you sending the right command. I would say paste a copy of a command you are trying to send. Heres a copy of a command I send,
Active,38000,1,21,228,46,46,46,23,23,23,23,46,23,46,23,23,46,23,23,23,46,23,1140,114,46,46,46,23,23,23,23,46,23,46,23,23,46,23,23,23,46,23,1140
To add to what Mike said above about ensuring you have the correct code (note, you can use your iTach global cache’s to learn codes directly from your existing remotes w/ iLearn):
Ensure your emitter is placed directly over/on-top-of the IR receiver on your device.
Brian is right, the problem was the location of the emitter which was too far away. I was not able to check the initial devices, but I tried new ones in another location with the other iTach and I spent a lot of time trying to find the best location for the emitter, on top of the devices’ infrared sensor. I also tried the IR blaster and made it work fine with all 3 devices. Are there some guidelines about where to locate the emitters and the IR blaster? I have not been able to find any… Thank you very much Mike and Brian!
Josep,
The best place for an emitter is stuck directly on top of the device’s IR receiver. It can be challenging at times finding exactly where that location is. But it’s usually located because some kind of smooth opaque plastic cover. Occasionally “googling” will help me locate it for a particular device. I usually bind a known-working media command to a button and spam-send it while moving the emitter around the device until I settle on a location that has consistent results before peeling back the paper revealing the sticker.
The “blaster” (which only works in port #3 and must be enabled via the web interface) is designed to control multiple devices or for long-range. One use-case would be if (like me) you stupidly forgot to run an IR cable to your TV across the room from your media rack. So I’ve got a blaster that’s used for turning on/off that specific device without being close by. In basically all other cases, emitters are preferred over blasters, because blasters can inadvertently control multiple devices who may speak the same language and are within range (for example if you had a Samsung sound bar & Blu-ray player). The blaster also requires significantly more power which is why the global cache’s only support 1ea.
Brian, thanks a lot for your explanations, they are very useful because I have no experience on this… So if you put the emitter right on top of the device’s sensor, will you be able to control the device with its original remote control, as well? In addition, this means that each device will have its own dedicated emitter with a limt of 3 per iTach right? Many thanks again, I really appreciate it.
I use a blaster and i works in a complete room with devices in different locations. Projector in top, screen on the other side and a LG Tv with mixed commands. Booth IP and IR.
Yes, You can use the original remote at the same time.
Ecis, if using the blaster the remote will work. My point is whether it will still work if you use the emitter placed on top of the device’s IR sensor…
No. You will then hide the IR eye, if I understand Your question.
That is what I also thought…
I haven’t had any issues with the original remotes working with an emitter in place unless I also opt for one of the additional black-out “Ir emitter covers” which is basically a glorified piece of electrical tape to keep out ambient light (they are useful in the right circumstances).
The emitter is semi-translucent, and your physical remote is of blaster-type - which means it is putting out far greater power than the emitter and is more susceptible to reflection. YMMV. You cay bypass the 3-emitter-per-itach limit by using mutli-headed emitters per channel. They sell them or you can create your own by splicing the wires. Just keep in mind that you reduce your signal strength by 1/2 by going to a dual emitter. Triple emitters are possible but significantly less common for this reason. This also means your going back to having a single command reach multiple devices such as was in the blaster configuration. When I do this I mix 2 manufactures on the same emitter string so I may be controlling both a Pioneer amp & an AppleTV with 1 wire - so it reduces the possibility of unintended commands.
I should add to my previous reply… the emitters I use are semi-transparent. However that doesn’t mean all are. I think in the case of the OEM Global Cache’s the emitter is semi-transparent but is affixed with a small black foam pad with a hole in the middle that lines up with the emitter IRLED. In this or similar cases you may run into issues. The ones I use are about 1/2 the size of those that come OEM and are affixed with a completely translucent double-sided sticky tape. I’ve read that a dollop of hot glue can be an excellent (clear) alternative to use for an adhesive - though I’ve never tried it myself.
Brian, thank you very much for your explanations! one last thing, cud you tell me the brand of the emitters you use? I might actually buy them in case I have issues with the oem ones.
The brand I use is Episode, unfortunately you likely won’t find them for public sale as Episode products are only sold to commercial integrators. Sorry to have dangled that carrot in-front of you. If you find yourself in a bind and have to get your hands on some let me know - but understand upfront they are ~$15ea so I’d try to make yours work if possible.
Brian, ok thank you very much.
I use x10 powermids. I have a single itach in a media closet that blasts a powermid transmitter and one powermid receiver in each room what that has IR devices to be controlled. The transmitter bounces the signal wirelessly to the receivers which then flash my devices. The only thing you need to watch out for is if you have 2 Tv’s for example of the same brand you may be unintentionally be controlling 2 TV,s. Fortunately my 2 Tv’s are a Samsung and a Sony. These powermids work well and they plug in so no need for batteries.
I’ve also had great success controlling devices via a mono 3.5mm cable to the IR In connector that some equipment has. I’ve previously controlled AV receivers and Blu-Ray players this way. I had one device that needed the extra power of the IR Blaster port (3) set to Blaster, but most others worked fine with the emitter outputs.
I’ve had a few emitters fall off over time as the adhesive dries out as well. Emitters and blasters are available on ebay, just need to get the right connector.
Wow, thanks a lot for all the recommendations ! I think I will try the blaster because I found out that the Harman Kardon DVD has the IR receiver just in the middle of the power button!, that is quite strange. Right now I managed to make the OEM blaster work for 3 devices and the codes do not interfere, so this is good news! Again, thank you very much to all of you, your comments have been very useful, I hope other users will also benefit from them !
I just set up a Sony Bravia TV yesterday with a global Cache IP2IR. The codeset (3387) is actually incorrect. The Bravia requires the IR code to be sent 3X before it will accept. I did a search (“4000,1”) and replace (“4000,3”) all and it works.
will post the modified code set as a separate replay
The code set is too long to post